Kumori bar in London is Soho’s answer to the quick dinner that still wants to look good under low light. It is a Japanese handroll bar, but also a listening bar, a counter restaurant and a useful first stop before the night becomes less organised. The premise is simple. Rice, fish and crisp nori are assembled in front of you, then handed across the counter while the seaweed still has its snap. There are no […]

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Mezzogiorno restaurant in London is the sort of hotel restaurant that wants to make you forget you are in a hotel. Not entirely, of course. The Corinthia is too polished, too grand, too certain of itself for that. But Francesco Mazzei’s cooking brings enough southern Italian warmth to soften the marble. The restaurant is inspired by Calabria, Puglia and Sicily, which means handmade pasta, citrus, seafood, chilli, aubergine, slow-cooked sauces and desserts designed to be […]

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The Sea, The Sea restaurant in London has finally grown into itself. What began as Chelsea’s clever fishmonger by day, seafood bar by night, has moved into a larger Pavilion Road site and become something more complete. There is still the ice, the counter, the dry-aged fish and the faint sense that dinner has been caught rather than cooked. But now there is also a proper upstairs bistro, a terrace and enough room to eat […]

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